Tuesday, October 25, 2005

The Age of Kali

I must admit, I was very skeptical about reading William Dalrymple's The Age of Kali. I didn't have a very good time of his White Mughals and was content not reading him again. Until a much respected friend asked me to give him another chance. Still hesitant and not wanting to invest in it myself, I dragged Words Worth to a bookstore and insisted she buy me the book for a birthday long gone.

Before beginning it, my greatest fears about the book were that he would either sell India or be patronizing, as a disturbing number of diasporic and non-Indian writers tend to be. Honestly, I was also apprehensive because I didn't want to read a critique or even an account of India from a "foreigner" and all that nationalist enthusiasm.

I have seldom had the chance to be so happy about being dead wrong. This book is everything a newspaper report/article ought to be but unfortunately, isn't.

Published in 1998, The Age of Kali is a collection of essays about Dalrymple's journeys in the Indian subcontinent and the Indian Ocean and spans from 1989 to 1998. Reading these in 2005, it may seem that some of these pieces have lost either relevance or are, in a sense, anachronous. Instead however, they provide an insightful, incisive look into the history and in many ways, the origins of the current social, political and economic situations in India.

His choice of title is grounded in the Hindu view of the epochs of time in which society will move through four ages - from a golden age into social and moral chaos. Indeed, his accounts of North India would well make you believe that we are undoubtedly living in the age of Kali, the lowest throw of an ancient game of dice, an age where things fall apart.

Dalrymple's experiences demonstrate the strangehold the caste system still has on not only rural India, but much of "modern" and urban India as well. The essay on Bihar chronicles the decay of governance in North India and the manipulation of a state into poverty and lawlessness. The pieces on Rajasthan are frightening in their observation of the interdependencies between politics, the caste system, poverty, sheer brute force and the terrifying oppression of women.

The situation is no different in Vrindavan in Uttar Pradesh, where Hindu widows - many of them child widows - languish in an apathetic and corrupt system and are most often left to beggary and singing in ashrams for "a cupful of rice and two rupees." If a widow be unfortunate enough to be young and attractive, an unholy nexus between the ashram managers and some sadhus ensures that she finds her way to the bed of a local landowner who, in his turn, will sell her to a brothel once he is done with her. And yes, the police are paid well for their non-interference.

At complete odds with this is the prosperity in urban southern and western India. In Bangalore, this boom calls forth the irrational xenophobia of the Karnataka State Farmers' Association which trashed a KFC outlet since the primary agenda of every MNC in India is to debase and violate our culture. In Bombay, it gives rise to a Hindi rap star (Baba Sehgal!) and a city full of people like Shobha De and other Page 3 regulars.

His essays on the temples of South India are travel writing at its most beautiful - evocative, descriptive and grounded in careful research. In the essays on Lucknow, Goa and Hyderabad,which are a requiem for a time and grandeur long gone, Dalrymple captures every sight, sound, taste, and sensation from another's memory and brings it to delightful and immediate animation.

His essays on Pakistan have a different character and I think, as a whole, are weak: Dalrymple does not seem to put as much into them as he does into his travels in India. However, the section on Peshawar is brilliantly etched and his description of the ancient Gandhara civilization is unequaled by any other account of the area that I have ever read.

He is also a wickedly funny man and takes subtle potshots you could miss if you blinked a little too fast. His use of anecdotes and incidents is subtle and always well timed. He tells the tale of India with a lot more compassion, warmth and understanding than I have often read Indians accord her. And I don't think that his reverence is something born of "exotica".

My only grouse is that his interactions are mostly with the urban, educated elite - both page 3 and the literati, as it were. I am not sure if that is the only or perhaps even right way to approach the subcontinent because even as we are now moving full steam ahead into globalization for all, I do not think Shobha De, of all people, can be taken as a snapshot of life in Bombay - of all cities. It also seems contradictory to his experiences in north India, i.e Rajasthan, Bihar, and Vrindavan, which deal with the middle classes and lower sections of Indian society.

At the heart of the matter, William Dalrymple is a gifted writer; someone you would come back to over and over. What I liked the most is that his observations are so gracefully unintrusive - unlike most reporters that shove both fact and their opinions in your face. The book and indeed, his writing is an interface between him, the place and you, his reader. You are free to make of the experience what you will.

****

To the one I wanted to speak with - I hope I did him justice...?

13 comments:

ChrisWoznitza said...

Hi I´m Chris. Greatings from Germany Bottrop !!

Brood Mode said...

interesting, must read it soon.

if u like essays, then Arundhati Roy's
"The algebra of infinite justice" is a must read

finnegan said...

This is as convincing as it gets, Extempore. I will be purchasing "The Age of Kali" for my holiday season reading stack.

Although my experience of India is limited to the single trip I took to Karnataka and Kerala back in 1993, that single 3-week trip still resonates with something potent beyond all comprehension.

wanderer said...

You've done more than just that. Thank you for such a well-thought of review of a book that I hold dear.

I am doing good; still hibernating though but I am watching you from the sidelines, not ready to appear.
Maybe, Page P.K. will do justice to where I am right now.
--

This Heavy Craft


The wax has melted
but the dream of flight
persists.
I, Icarus, though grounded
in my flesh
have one bright section in me
where a bird
night after starry night
while I'm asleep
unfolds its phantom wings
and practices

./w

Casablanca said...

Sounds very interesting and will lay my hands on it as soon as I can!

Must also compliment you on the lovely review you've done of the book. So simple, and so real.

Eleventy Seven said...

You are quite the voracious reader. Envy and regard - complex emotions.

Nice piece. I saw it once lying at my friends place but never could quite get myself to digest it. Am always a sucker for light reading.

Photography lessons?
:-)

. : A : . said...

Sounds interesting. Must give it a go. Have not read it yet.

Srikar said...

well I was sort of half dead !! Now that I'm alive (of sorts) I'll be back to the world of blogging with all guns balzing.

Btw, nice to know someone is following up my blog so closely...

GD said...

Very well-written review.

I haven't read anything by him, but this one sounds interesting.... you have to lend me the book.
Also, I suggest P. Sainath's 'Everybody Loves A Good Drought'.

the cowlick said...

Lovely review.. in my must-read list now. I tried to read The White Moghals but I have an aversion to anything historical.. this one, however, sounds interesting.

incognito said...

I don't know much about the book and the writer but your post has really given an insight of India. Its a pity that in the age of Kali some places have lost their values that were once so worshipable. India is one of the few countries with a very rich culture. I just hope we don't lose that culture because of a few miscreants.

The Complimenting Commenter said...

That is a great review. I am now interested in this book. Great post and good blog.

Extempore said...

@Chris: Welcome! Thanks for commenting.

@Brood Mode: Glad you thought so... :). Thanks for the reco -will check out Roy asap.

@Finnegan: Thank you, Finn! I look forward to hearing what you thought of it. And I completely get what you mean - I spent a week in Kerala 2 yrs ago and it was the most fantastice trip ever! :)

@Wanderer: Am so glad to see this comment, you would have no idea! I was quite happy to admit being wrong about William... have been looking for City of Djinns to no avail.

And yes, I know you've in the sidelines... am unutterably glad because of it too! *hug*

@Casablanca: Thanks! I am sure you'll enjoy it. :)

@Saurabh: Oh yes, absolutely love reading and would be happy to suggest light reading as well. And you sir, let me know about the photography. :)

@.:A:. : Thanks!

@Srikar: If your maiden effort is anything like "Back with a Bang", I can't wait!

@GD: Will lend it asap and thanks for the reco!

@The Cowlick: Thanks! I didn't like White Mughals much either but I think you'll really enjoy this.

@Incognito: One of these days, I am sure, you will stop bemoaning the loss of Vrindavan. :)

@The Complimenting Commenter: Thanks for dropping by and commenting. :)